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Shakespeare and theater enthusiast, environmentalist. I am a commercial fisherwoman, I fish Kodiak as a deck boss on a salmon Seiner and build nets at Bulletproof Nets in the winter.There’s a guitarist at the open mike who, as soon as he spots Annie, stops strumming and says, “I’m dedicating this song to you.” A fisherman with scraggly hair plants himself in front of me and launches into his life story. He’s about to leave on a fishing boat that will be away from port for three months.The string of whale teeth around his neck is from a whale that was hunted and killed by his late wife. His eyes well up, and his voice trembles as he leans in.“I haven’t been with a woman since she died,” he says. “Six years, six months and 11 days.” We had traveled 4,500 miles from Washington, D.
C., to wind up here, in Homer, Alaska, a fishing village whose nickname is “The End of the Road.” We were on some kind of quest, but for what exactly?
One of us was recovering from an on-again, off-again relationship that had finally finished its death spiral; the other was nursing a broken heart and in the meantime had taken up with a thrice-divorced playboy nicknamed Gator.